Every garment is constructed using the following techniques :
22 to 24 stitches per inch in sewing construction J. Hilburn shirts are assembled with what is known as Single Needle
Tailoring, the most expensive method, involving as many 22 to 24 stitches
per inch compared to a commercial dress shirt that has only 12 stitches
per inch. Not only does this make the stitching almost invisible but it
enables the shirt to retain its original shape and keep the collars and cuffs
firm and crisp through many more washings.
Double-Stack Buttons with Shell Backing We use a double-stack button with a natural shell backing. The double-
stack button feels sturdy and the shell backing is extremely solid. The
shell backing is made from natural materials, which explains the variances
in color. Additionally, we designed our buttons exclusively to reduce
chipping and breaking caused by commercial dry-cleaning and laundry.
Matching Fabric Patterns We make sure fabric patterns on the shirt are matched across the front
and from the split yoke to the sleeve. This ensures the fabric pattern is
consistent across all designs of the shirt regardless of the features that a
customer selects.
156 stitches per button hole Our shirts are made with 156 stitches per button hole versus a commercial
shirt that may have at most 128 stitches per button hole. The more
stitches per buttonhole ensures tight and crisp stitching around the
buttonhole, which will increase the sturdiness of the buttonhole so it does
not fray after several washings. Additionally, the button stitches are
interlocked to ensure the buttons do not fall off.
Seams finished using specialized French Binding Binding a seam is important for a variety of reasons, the main one being to
enclose a raw edge or seam. Enclosing a raw edge or seam may be
useful not only for aesthetic reasons but to prevent the fabric from
unraveling in the wash.
French Binding adds an extra layer of fabric to the binding strip in order to
add strength and durability to the seams. This ensures the seams remain
firm and crisp after several washings.
Commercial shirts generally use Bias binding to enclose the seam, which
is not as sturdy or durable as French Binding.
Four piece collars A four piece collar creates a more durable collar that holds its shape after
several washings. A four piece collar also ensures the collar shape is
consistent and identical because the collar pieces are built to the shape of
the neck. There is a fabric inter-lining in the collar, but we do not use any
chemicals or glue, which can bubble and add discoloration over time.
A two piece collar, which is common in commercial use, is a more rigid
collar in terms of its shape, so it does not shape to the neck as well as a
four piece collar. In other words, a two piece collar is more rigid and
definitive in it shape, which does not adjust to a persons neck like a four
piece collar would.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Contact me to book your J.Hilburn fitting experience. Now taking September appointments!
samira.abrams@jhilburn.com 415.608.3005 www.jhilburn.com